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Švédsko, Štokholm • 06.11.2005

Dnes je nedeľa a ja si ešte trošku pospím. Raňajky sú až do jedenástej, takže dnes si to môžem dovoliť. Včera večer som dorazila do Štokholmu a aj keď bola sobota večer, nemala som žiadne sily ani na pohár vína.

ŠtokholmJe zaujímavé zisťovať zvyky a tradície rozličných krajín cez ich raňajky. Aj tu je veľa rýb, ale mojou najobľúbenejšou drobnosťou je pomazánka z kaviáru. Neuveriteľné, a ten teraz môžem jesť hneď zrána. Kávu tu majú silnú a chlieb je tmavohnedý a chutí ako aníz. Určite viete o čom hovorím, my sme to jedli v cukríkoch, ktoré sa myslím volali "Lékorky", čierny pendrek. Ale tu im to chutí slané a dokonca aj v chlebe, fuj!

Je krásny slnečný deň a hneď sa mi tu páči oveľa viacej než v Osle. Prechádzam sa po uliciach a zablúdim aj na Drottninggatan, ktorý je plný ľudí. Vyzerá to tak, že sem Štokholm veľmi rád chodí hlavne v nedeľu. Ulica je plná obchodov a kaviarní so stolmi na uliciach a najlepšia vec na celej tejto časti mesta je to, že sem nesmú žiadne autá.

Štokholm - Drottninggatan

Títo ľudia majú podobný vzťah k teplému počasiu ako Kanaďania. Je to zábavné, hneď ako sa začne roztápať sneh, všetci sedia vonku na pádiu pred kaviarňami a barmi. A keď začnú mrznúť, pretože je predsa len horko ťažko nad nulou, pomôžu si teplými dekami.


Sadnem si do cukrárne s bielym klavírom a objednám kávu a zákusok. Počula som, že Štokholmské kaviarne sú aspoň také známe tu na severe, ako sú Viedenské v zbytku Európy. Prostredie sa zdá veľmi pekné, ale to iba na prvý pohľad, po minúte nachádzam drobnosti, ktoré som vôbec neočakávala z vonkajšieho vzhľadu tejto kaviarne. Zdá sa mi, že je to hlavne vďaka veku tejto budovy, že táto miestnosť má atmosféru, ktorá ľudí naláka dnu. Biely klavír tu gýčovo sedí uprostred kaviarne a smutno osamelý je zablokovaný stolmi a stoličkami. Obsluha tu tiež nie je, musím si ísť po moje dobrôtky sama. Ale po tomto všetkom, som celkom pekne prekvapená, keď zahĺbim vidličku do čokoládového domčeka, na ktorý sa mi zbiehali slinky. A je to veru dobrôtka. Čokoládovo-liskovcovo-mandľová dobrôtka. Lepšie som mala iba vo Viedni a v Bratislave. Nakoniec som rada, že som sem vošla a ak by som už teraz nemala mravcov v nohaviciach, dala by som si ešte jeden kúsok.

Štokholm - prístav

Pokračujem teda ďalej smerom k starému mestu Gamla Stan. Norrmalm, kde je môj hotel a aj Drottninggatan, je novšou časťou mesta. Ale každý z ostrovov, z ktorých je toto mesto zložené je novšou časťou mesta v porovnaní s Gamla Stanom.

Štokholm - Gamla

Gamla Stan je malý ostrovček uprostred Štokholmu, kde sú korene tohto mesta. V knihách všade čítam, že je to miesto, kam sa každý musí ísť pozrieť. Nasadnem na metro a iba keď vlak dôjde do prvej stanice zistím, že som na nesprávnom vlaku. Chcem sa teda vrátiť naspäť, ale keď nasadnem na vlak, ktorý ide opačným smerom, zistím, že som zas nasadla na celkom iný vlak a teraz som sa už aj stratila. No rýchlo sa zas nájdem. Je to tu ako v New Yorku. Na tých istých koľajach stávajú vlaky, ktoré sa potom rozbiehajú do rozličných smerov. Konečne nájdem ten správny a som na mojej ceste. Neľutujem ale, že som sa takto pomýlila, dokonca si myslím, že to spravím ešte raz, aby som si mohla prezrieť aj viaceré stanice. Sú to totiž malé, alebo skôr veľké galérie s umením na stenách aj na podlahe. Ale väčšina z neho má už takých 20 aj viacej rokov. No som si istá, že ak by som sa rozhodla stráviť deň v metre, našla by som naozaj úžasné veci.

Štokholm - GamlaGamla Stan je naozaj krásny a veľmi unikátny. Sú tu budovy s piatimi poschodiami a uzučké uličky, až sa zdá, že sem ani slnko nedočiahne. Je to ako z rozprávky. Kamenné uličky a chýba mi tu iba princezná. No a to som zistila, že aj tá tu je - korunná princezná má asi 28 rokov, ale celá kráľovská rodina býva v paláci za mestom, nie v starom paláci v Gamla Stane. Túlam sa po uličkách a zájdem aj na Riddarholmen, ostrov rytierov s krásnym kamenným námestím a kostolom s vysokou vežou a úžasným výhľadom na radnicu na pobreží ostrova naproti. Ale tu je mesto tichučké. Hluk áut ani náhliacich sa ľudí sa sem nedostane. A je to tak dobré, minulosť si takto môže oddýchnuť a človek má pocit akoby tu bolo iné storočie. Je to naozaj úžasné ako je toto mesto pospájané mostami a ako je všetko na ostrovoch. Zdá sa mi, a dáva to aj zmysel, že každý z týchto ostrovov je inou časťou mesta s inou charakteristikou a inými budovami, s úplne iným zložením. Dúfam, že ich uvidím ešte aspoň zopár.

Štokholm - GamlaNaozaj som si ani len nepredstavovala, ako by asi tak mohol Štokholm vyzerať. Jediné predstavy boli pocity z kníh Selmy Lagerlofovej a tie sú už z dosť dávnej minulosti v rýchlo sa vyvíjajúcom svete, v ktorom teraz žijeme. Gamla Stan ma ale donesie naspäť do dôb už dávno minulých. Nechce sa mi odtiaľto odísť. Je tu krásne počas dňa, je tu krásne popoludní a je tu krásne aj k večeru, keď oranžové svetlo zafarbuje sivé steny teplými tónmi a okná odrážajú ozveny slnka na steny na domoch oproti. Škoda, že ma už bolia nohy, keď sa stmie, je tu určite nádherne tiež.

Stojím na námestí Stortorget a cítim sa ako v stredoveku. Kamenne dláždená podlaha a fontána obrúbené krásnymi vysokými a tenučkými domami a dokonca je tu aj starenka, ktorá čosi pletie na obrovských ihliciach. Takže toto vraj vždy bolo stredom mesta a kde dnes stojí fontána, kedysi trestali nezbedníkov palicovaním. Najstaršia budova je vysoký štíhly domček namaľovaný na červeno. Vraj tie najstaršie budovy sú z minulosti červené. Najväčšia budova kedysi bývala burza, kde sa bankovalo a investovali sa peniaze. Teraz ale je to Nobelove múzeum a keby nebolo už zatvorené, šla by som sa určite pozrieť do vnútra.

Štokholm - kráľovský palác

Zabočím za roh a vidím krásny zámok a hŕstku ľudí, ktorí sa dívajú na čosi na námestí pred vchodom. Keď prídem bližšie, pridám sa k nim aj ja. Náhodou som natrafila na výmenu stráží. A pozrieť si skupinku chlapcov v uniformách ako mašírujú hore dole po námestí si predsa nenechám ujsť. Uniformy majú naozaj pekné a všetko to prebehne v tichosti a bez veľkých ceremónií. Tento palác je otvorený pre návštevníkov. Kráľ aj kráľovná tu pracujú, ale ani jeden z kráľovskej rodiny tu nebýva, je to iba ich pracovné sídlo a múzeum.

Štokholm - kráľovský palác

Pešo sa prejdem naspäť k môjmu hotelu a po ceste vidím nádherné obrovské lode zakotvené okolo ostrovčekov Štokholmu. Je úžasné, že takéto veci sú časťou denného života pre ľudí, ktorí tu žijú a tak je to aj s námorníkmi na uliciach, o ktorých som ja iba čítala v knihách, ale iba málokedy videla v mestečku v horách, ďaleko od mora.

Henrieta Hanisková, henrieta@exil.sk



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